A running track in the sky? I know that Four Seasons is all about luxury but didn’t expect that working out could feel quite so “elevated.”

Situated on the rooftop of the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon, the 400-meter, U-shaped running track—and the floor-to-ceiling glass fitness center of which it is a part—offers panoramic views of Lisbon’s neighboring Parque Eduardo VII, Lisbon’s Old Town and the Tagus River.

But that’s just what’s on top. From the moment you enter the luminous marble lobby with its signature floral arrangements, it is clear you are in for something special. The hotel boasts more than 40,000 square meters of rare marble on its floors and interior walls. And with about a 100 works of Portuguese sculptures, tapestries and paintings, its interior feels as much like a museum or gallery as it does a hotel.

Its modernist exterior, by contrast, was designed to create a modern legacy to the city, in contrast to both art deco restraint and Louis XVI flourishes in its interior.  Sitting on a steep hilltop, the iconic blue neon “Ritz” sign that crowns the building gives it a bold retro image that stands out in the skyline.

Street Cred: It’s all about location

Located above Lisbon’s downtown, the Four Seasons Ritz is still a 15- to 20-minute walk from the historic part of the city and the neighborhoods of Príncipe Real, Bairro Alto and Chiado. This means you can easily wander the city’s narrow cobbled streets, be dining al fresco at one of its many restaurants or listening to its soulful Fado over a glass of wine in just minutes after leaving your hotel room.

But if you prefer a quiet bucolic setting, simply cross the street to the 64-acre Parque Eduardo VII, Lisbon’s central park. Here you can admire the peacocks preening next to the lake, enjoy a diverse range of plant life in its greenhouse and take in views of the river from its manicured gardens.

Who hangs here: Is this hotel for you?

Over the Easter weekend when we visited, the hotel’s indoor and outdoor pool and Varanda restaurant were teeming with young families with well-behaved children. But outside of summer and school holidays, you’ll find mainly couples and solo travelers in their early 50s. With a Jaguar and Audi parked out front and guests wearing BOSS and Louis Vuitton, you can expect affluent visitors who appreciate classic, old-world elegance. Although the clientele is international, many are from the United States, Britain, Europe and Brazil.

The straight goods: What’s in a room?

The 242 rooms and 40 suites are spacious and elegant, with uber comfortable bed and linens.  Décor is classically neutral greys, beige and white, with pale wood accents behind the bed and mini bar. Classy touches include the vintage-style Marshall radio, the leather case with Dyson hair dryer tucked away in the cupboard and small glass bottles of milk (rather than the dreaded plastic creamers) next to the espresso machine.

The elegant ensuite bathroom combines marble, chrome, porcelain and mirrors, with separate rooms for a remote-controlled Japanese toilet and a shower. The bathroom also has a soaker tub and two stand-alone sinks.

If you can, book a park rather than city view. Then sit out on your private balcony with an espresso or a glass of Courvoisier from the mini bar while enjoying the view. There are two chairs at the bistro table, and with slippers and puffy white robes, it’s a perfect way to start or end the day.

The room service was impeccable, from my folded underwear next to the bed and a Four Seasons bookmark placed on top of my novel, to a clasp attached to my USB cords and that pastel de nata (egg custard tart) and fruit welcoming us when we checked into our room.

Good eats: Cocktails and cuisine

While I’ve enjoyed many a sumptuous breakfast buffet spread, the one at the hotel’s Varanda restaurant was particularly outstanding, with everything from green detox tea to buttery croissants, crispy bacon, artisanal granola, fresh fruit, a wide selection of cheeses and cured meats, plus desserts like nut tartelette, pastel de nata and crepes.

The Ritz Bar offers another chic but casual setting to enjoy a salad or sandwich, sushi (available Tuesday to Saturday evenings) and cocktails like the signature Ritz mojito, along with wine, port and other beverages.

But the star of the show is their one Michelin star restaurant CURA (short for curadoria in Portuguese or skillful curating) under executive chef Rodolfo Lavrador. You can choose between a five- or 10-course experience, with the option of all-Portuguese wine pairings or non-alcoholic essences and infusions. We got to enjoy the 10-course version, seated at the chef’s table, where we were able to appreciate the masterful plating by sous chef Marina Garcia and the rest of the team. The service was prompt, and the ambience felt high end and elegant without pretentiousness.

There were many standout dishes. We started with the signature rice and buckwheat crackers with a green olive emulsion. We then ate smoked eel in dumpling-like shells of red cabbage with beads of granny smith apple and dill. Even the ancient wheat and cornbread that we slathered with Azores butter and dipped in green olive oil with lemon verbena was a delight. Our mains included Atlantic wreckfish, stingray and mussel with seaweed and pumpkin, as well as Galician ox with radish, mint and kumquat. The ice cream with orange cake, orange blossom and smoked orange was a lovely finishing touch.

Bragging rights: What else has it got?

Their state-of-the-art rooftop fitness center with floor-to-ceiling windows has multiple rooms that include a freestyle studio for yoga, Pilates, stretching and dancercise. The center is equipped with cardio equipment from the new Symbio line by Life Fitness, high performance machines from Hammer Strength, a complete strength training circuit from the Insignia line by Life Fitness as well as free weights and a functional training zone. It was definitely the most impressive fitness facility I’ve been in, not just for the equipment but the rooftop views.

Their award-winning Ritz spa sits one floor below the lobby. Its multisensory space boasts Zen-inspired marble and oak interiors, calming music and original artwork. They have four treatment rooms, each with private showers, eucalyptus-scented sauna and crushed ice fountain and lounge beds next to an 18-meter indoor lap pool.

The hotel also has an outdoor and indoor pool with sauna and steam room in both men and women’s change areas.

To learn more about the art collection in the hotel, you can download a free iOS art app onto your phone that includes images and descriptors of many of the pieces. For kids, the app also includes a fun memory game to see how well they can recall the artwork they have seen throughout the hotel.

For me, some art highlights are the Day and Night tapestries by Pedro Leitão and an impressive gold mural painting by Almada Negreiros in the lobby that looks extra impressive next to the stunning orchid displays.

Parting shot: If we could change one thing

I would have loved wee bit bigger pours on wine pairings at the wonderful CURA 10-course experience.

Hotel-Addict found rates in July for EUR 1,230.

Photos courtesy of Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts.